Scale build-up in pump/discharge pipe.
Discharge pump stiff to operate
This is most often due to the bucket
washers (part 51) being oversize, expanding or drying-out, when not used for a
period. When new washers are supplied the tolerance is oversize to allow for
any wear on the cylinder of older toilets. If the toilet is not used for a
while or if oil is taken into the pump it can cause the washers to expand. All
of these reasons mean the frictional resistance between the washer and the side
of the cylinder is too great making it very difficult to pump. In all cases it
will be necessary to take the piston assembly out of the pump and take a skim
off of the outer circumference of the washers using emery paper or a file. When
fitting new washers they should be tested to see the pump will work freely
before everything is re-assembled. The washers barely need to touch the side of
the cylinder, and there should be an easy movement on the pump when operated. Do not over tighten the piston locking ring when
Top Gland of pump/s leaks
Inlet/discharge water passing gland seal - Replace "O" ring
and/or re-pack with gland packing. Piston rod worn - Replace. Gland
nuts and/or pump tops worn - Replace.
Flushing pump loses prime
Bucket washer worn - Replace. Lower valve worn - Replace.
Note - (To re-prime, apply 10/12 VERY RAPID strokes of handle or remove nut
on connection between wheel control valve & flush pump and manually fill to
Bowl backfills with water
Could be filling from discharge side due to faulty lower "clack
valve" - Try to free and re-seat, if this does not work, replace. Safety
wheel control valve not seating correctly - Replace.
Caused by chemical reaction with minerals in water - clear from pipe work by removing
cylinder and soak in 50/50 caustic soda solution.